Carrick is an ancient
town, invaded time and again by Normans and Vikings and all comers, each
bringing their own brands of raping and pillaging and government. A fortress
town, and once the capital of Ireland, the Carrick of my life has been one of
few surprises. The history of the town is the heart and breath of the town. For
decades or centuries its economy has depended a great deal on the tourist
industry, on the number of feet that walked under the portcullis in the Norman
castle, or down the nave in the Norman church. Visitors came to view the town's ancient walled fortifications, or to walk its ancient streets in the footsteps,
shadows and memories of some ancestor. Visitors, tourists, and day-trippers
came to inhale the same salty air their parents and grandparents exhaled gladly
generations afore; they came to view the archaeology unearthed in the eighties,
showing the limits of the walled defences. It remains an ancient town for
ancient people interested in ancient pursuits or the pursuit of ancient
peoples. The Carrick I know wants everyone to be ancient, to abstain from the
joys of youth and to indulge in the joys of history and archaeology and
steadfastness in the face of all the change going on out there, beyond those
fortified walls.
For years the town
elders insisted we needed an attraction that the youth also could enjoy, and
so, very eventually - when the money was in - we sat two-by-two in their
enormous Viking helmets, each rider a Viking ear, on the monorail high above in
the Heritage Centre, and we took trips through the history of the town, yet
again, snug in our helmets-made-for-two, the resonant tones of the actor Jimmy
Ellis piped into our tight but comfy Viking worlds. There was pervading a
hatred of youth in my youth. The Belfast Road play park disappeared under the
marina, but that was no bad thing as the rides had rusted to a stiff silence. The rivets on the slide had popped and were missing from what was once its shiny
surface. The swings had screeched to a halt in mid-air, a final giggle fallen into
the seat, shattered. The leisure centre and the parks remained closed on the
Lord’s day, but there were the preachers on the Castle Green if we wanted to
wile away an hour or four in hymns and psalms and sermons and God and
celebration of this seventh and very restful day.
Carrick likes to think
of itself as homely, cosy, inviting, safe, familiar, a place where evil and
change and catalysts and new dawns is good enough only for those beyond the
ancient walls. There is danger beyond the Carrick walls, a danger that would
pillage from us all our sense of time and place, they said. This place they
defended had its heart somewhere back beyond the year 1180, when the
foundations of the castle and town walls created fortress Carrickfergus.
Carrickfergus has
forever been a town of no surprises. There you can enter any shop with a cheque
half-written. Someone called Stephen owned Stephen’s Barbers; Terry Windsor
owned Windsor Electric; Jimmy McCullough owned McCullough’s Bakery in High
Street; Derek Someone-Or-Other owned Derek’s Fashions; a McManus owned the
butchers in West Street; Sally Picken owned, managed and worked in Picken’s,
the newsagent nearest our house; and someone called Todd ran Todd’s newsagent
in Ellis Street. Todd’s became Taylor’s when Mr. and Mrs. Taylor took it over.
No surprises please.
Carrick is a town where
you can get many things most of the time. You will have it handed to you rarely
without some form of courtesy, wrapped up in history, sealed shut with a bang.
Some hear a lock turn.
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